IF I WERE AN HAUTE COUTURE CUSTOMER, THIS WEEK...

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Haute Couture is the ultimate rarefied world of fashion. It occupies its own fashion space, one populated with women of wealth whose lifestyle most of us can only begin to comprehend.  Generally, the designers who excel in this area are several shades apart from everyday ready-to-wear designers. The fashion houses who cross over, successfully serving both sides of the clientele, are Chanel, Valentino and Armani.

To pass an hour or so on this fine morning I imagined what, after viewing the catwalk shows, I would order from the couture ateliers for myself (should I be forced to spend my money on such frivolities). In the case of Dior I felt it neccessary to purchase from what is probably the most derided Haute Couture collection ever designed, with a spirit of fun of course. There is a certain charm to the mad tranny-ness of the whole thing if you look at it from a certain angle...

Christian Dior Haute Couture - think I might just order the top as my local vintage shop has a room full of those skirts

Rock n roll couture from Chanel

Black tailored elegance from Bouchra Jarrar

I've always hankered after a couture parka - Jean Paul Gaultier Couture

For that Venetian ball I might be invited to - breathtaking beauty from Elie Saab

Divine Valentino Couture

There was something quite magical about this collection, so two purchases! - Valentino Couture

Beyonce wore Alexandre's gold jacket for her epic Glasto performance. Anything Beyonce can do, right? Alexandre Vauthier revives the Mugler/Montana 80s silhouette

Ideal coat for a Christmas party (that does not serve red wine) - Giambattista Valli

For tough-girling it around town at London Fashion Week? Maison Martin Margiela

Photos: Catwalking.com

MR PORTER: BOYS ON FILM

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

There's a heatwave underway on this speck of Greece, so waiting until 2pm to face-off with the harsh rays is sensible, and what better way to pass a few hours than with a meander around online watching short films?

Yesterday I was directed to look at the fashion films being created by Mr Porter, where my dear friend and great editor Mr Jeremy Langmead is the majordomo. Fashion Film is what fashion retail websites should be doing to express themselves. The male approach to fashion and style is vastly different to that of women. Men let practicality and usefulness guide their choices, and most fashionable men I know are not that catwalk led. A combination of street style, tradition and sartorial etiquette seems to be the blend that drives them. Correct me if I am wrong.

I absolutely LOVED everything about this film that documents stylish male cyclists in Amsterdam.

While locked into Mr Porter's youtube channel I also came across this. It seems the existence of Mr Porter has inspired Jimmy Choo (who have a highly successful shop-in-shop on sister site Net-a-Porter) to debut a snazzy menswear collection with the site. The film directed by Carter Peabody and styled by Dan May is charming, jazzy and not too fancy-pants thus doing its job in a lovely way. I defy any man not to want a pair of Jimmy Choo sneakers to dally around town in. Girls will fall for them too. There are several styles to choose from that actually seem OK to wear with a suit. And for the man who can successfully work a Dalmation spotted cowhide slipper loafer, there's something for you. Oh and there are smashing brown lace-ups too.

FANCY A FLAMENCO?

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

When I met Stuart Vevers of Loewe recently at the launch of the Spanish luxury brand's flagship boutique in Mayfair it was our chance to have a good old catch up. Since he has moved to Madrid to be the creative director of Loewe he has left a social gap that is nigh on impossible to fill. There are not many fabulously be-spectacled, be-suited secret agent lookalikes with broad Carslisle accents in fashion.

Stuart is a wonderful designer. What he doesn't know about what makes a good handbag would fit on the head of a pin. When he was in London in March we talked handbags (as usual) and while showing me his various spins on the Amazona bag (below, from backstage at his SS11 collection by Jason Lloyd Evans)....

...we also talked about his new handbag launch for Autumn/Winter 2011, the Flamenco. The lucky bag - there's two of them at the top of this post being clutched to model Mariacarla Boscono's naked body for Loewe's new advertising campaign - come in various colour pops and colour block combinations, and it really is as cute and fun as a puppy. As always Stuart has collaborated with Katie Grand, who in turn has worked with her best buddies Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot to realise the images which are currently being released at one a day on Loewe's Facebook page. I like how they used Madrid's Ritz hotel as a backdrop. The Madrid Ritz is the setting for many glamorous goings on that involve Ava Gardner, Ernest Hemingway and Loewe.
The first image from the set is above, now press play to see the fun little film they made showing all the ways you can play with your Flamenco...

HENRY HOLLAND VS THE 90S

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

In the run up to my getting the hell out of London, I missed quite possibly the best pre-collction lookbook of the Resort 12 season, by Henry Holland. Ok, so its not quite a look-on-look display, and you don't feel you get the measure or feel of the collection but damn if its not the most perfect expression of the House of Holland brand possible. Fashion Film viewed via the Internet is shaping up to be the best way forward for young brands to express themselves. As evidenced by the beyond sexy British model Eliza Cummins (who really can dance)working it to Neneh Cherry's Buffalo Stance (I like, know every word)in the style of the Groove Is In the Heart video by Dee-lite, this House of Holland lookbook is my favourite bit of fashion fluff right now.

PRE COLLECTION SS12 from House of Holland on Vimeo.

OH DAPHNE!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

If you're wondering why I'm not at the Couture, its because this year I took my holiday earlier than usual. So here I am on the holy Greek isle of Patmos looking out over the sea from my vantage point high on the hill. While here I will be sharing fashion and holiday as well as holiday fashion musings. In August the new Fashion Junior at Large joins me and this blog will start to grow up a bit as I want to see what happens if I make it more than a hobby.  

I'm a huge fan of Daphne Guinness. Had she been around during the 1920s and 30s, she could have hung out with Nancy Cunard, Coco Chanel and Diana Vreeland (junior version, her later years are what inspire most people, but having read everything about DV in print I'm a fan of every year). People would have understood her better in that context. Daphne is a relic of women past, a rich and rarefied creature who exists in a bubble of art and philosophical musings. She is a woman who wholly believes in the romance of art, craft, creativity and couture and wishes to keep the old ways alive, which she does in the only way she knows how, by commissioning artisans to create works for her.

Below is one-such. Everything about this "launch" of a chain mail made-to-measure gauntlet glove  made up of 5000 pave diamonds and 1000 grams of gold makes me want to scream. But I'm torn between screaming at the ridiculousness of it, and the wonder of it. 

Had I been at Jay Jopling's house for the "launch" and watched Daphne "lie in state" shrouded in white silk tulle with just the glittering glove on show, I know I would have tittered uncontrollably at first and then been sucked in by the beauty of it.

I know plenty of people who will rubbish Daphne's project with Shaun, but in 100 years when its in a museum somewhere and people gather around to marvel at it and the memory of Daphne it will be a treasure. So I leave you with the press release, as I couldn't take it apart. Forgive me for lifting it.